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Because diamonds are so valuable, it¹s essential for industry professionals to have a universal grading system when comparing diamond quality. In the mid-twentieth century, the Gemological Institute of America ( GIA ) developed the International Diamond Grading System and the 4Cs as a way to objectively compare and evaluate diamonds.

The Four Cs of diamond quality will give you a multitude of information about a diamond¹s characteristics and value, but they can¹t begin to describe one elusive quality ­ beauty. To do that, you¹ll need to experience the diamond with your own eyes.

Carat Weight
Diamonds and other gemstones are weighed using metric carats with one carat weighing about the same as a small paper clip, or 0.2 grams. Just as a dollar is divided into 100 pennies, a carat is divided into 100 points which means that a diamond of 50 points weighs 0.50 carats. But two diamonds of equal weight can have very different values depending on the other three characteristics of a diamond¹s 4Cs: clarity, color, and cut. The majority of diamonds used in fine jewelry weigh one carat or less.

Because even a fraction of a carat can represent a considerable difference in cost when purchasing diamonds, exact precision is crucial. In the diamond industry, weight is measured to a thousandth of a carat and rounded to the nearest hundredth. Each hundredth is called a point ( a 0.25 ct. diamond would be called a ³twenty-five pointer² ). Diamond weights greater than one carat are expressed in carats and decimals. ( For instance, a 1.08 ct. stone would be described as ³one point oh eight carats,² or ³one oh eight.² )

Color
Diamonds are valued by how closely they approach colorlessness ­ the less color, the higher the value. Most diamonds found in jewelry stores run from colorless to near-colorless with slight hints of yellow or brown. The only exceptions are the fancy-color diamonds that lie outside of this range.

GIA's diamond color-grading scale is the industry¹s most widely accepted grading system. The scale begins with the letter D, representing colorless, and continues, with increasing presence of color, to the letter Z. Diamonds are color-graded by comparing them to stones of known color under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions.

Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye. But these slight color differences make a very big difference in diamond quality and price.

Clarity
Because they are created deep within the earth, most diamonds contain unique birthmarks called inclusions (internal) and blemishes ( external ). Diamonds with very few birthmarks are rare and, of course, rarity affects a diamond¹s value. Using the International Diamond Grading System, created by GIA, diamonds are given a clarity grade that ranges from flawless ( FL ) to diamonds with more prominent inclusions ( I3 ).

Every diamond is unique. But none are absolutely perfect even though some come close, even under 10x magnification. Known as flawless diamonds, they are exceptionally rare. Most jewelers have never even seen one.

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades, with most readily available diamonds falling into the VS or SI categories. In determining a clarity grade, GIA considers the size, nature, position, color or relief, and quantity of clarity characteristics visible under 10x magnification.

• Flawless ( FL ). No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
• Internally Flawless ( IF ). No inclusions and only minor blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
• Very, Very Slightly Included ( VVS1 and VVS2 ). Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
• Very Slightly Included ( VS1 and VS2 ). Inclusions are clearly visible under 10x magnification but can be characterized as minor.
• Slightly Included ( SI1 and SI2 ). Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.
• Imperfect ( I1, I2, and I3 ). Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.

Cut
The traditional 58 facets in a round brilliant diamond, each precisely cut and defined, are as small as two millimeters in diameter. But without this precision, a diamond wouldn¹t be nearly as beautiful. The allure of a particular diamond depends more on cut than anything else.

Though extremely difficult to analyze or quantify, the cut of any diamond has three attributes: brilliance
( the total light reflected from a diamond ), fire ( the dispersion of light into the colors of the spectrum ), and scintillation ( the flashes of light, or sparkle, when a diamond is moved ).

An understanding of diamond cut begins with the shape of a diamond. The standard round brilliant is the shape used in most diamond jewelry. All others are known as fancy shapes. Traditional fancy shapes include the marquise, pear, oval and emerald cuts. Hearts, cushions, triangles and a variety of others are also gaining popularity in diamond jewelry.

As a value factor, though, cut refers to a diamond¹s proportions, symmetry and polish. For example, look at a side view of the standard round brilliant. The major components, from top to bottom, are the crown, girdle and pavilion. A round brilliant cut diamond has 57 or 58 facets, the 58th being a tiny flat facet at the bottom of the pavilion that¹s known as the culet. The large, flat facet on the top is the table. The proportions of a diamond refer to the relationships between table size, crown angle and pavilion depth. A wide range of proportion combinations are possible, and these ultimately affect the stone¹s interaction with light.

Source: The Gemological Institute of America

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